Drug Wars have a massive impact on Mexico. Now Mexico is reeling under other multiple impacts, a lousy US economy, necessity for US travelers to have a Passport or other federal documentation to get back home, the swine flu scare, it's own economic problems and slow death by media. How can a country recover from this much negativity? We need help.
This is the 23nd of June, 2009 and is written in Baja California, Mexico.
Since everyone is recognizing their poverty in the USA, they can save money by planning their vacations in Baja. The dollar buys more in food, accommodations and shopping then you could ever dream of. Retirement condos and homes are going for prices unheard of in recent years. The lifestyle of the residents hasn't changed. We go on about our business, have parties, go to restaurants, dance, walk on the beach and enjoy all those things we always did. I'm an old broad and I drive around with no fear. People are as polite, friendly and welcoming as always - actually, maybe more now since tourists have become a decidedly endangered species. The locals are really glad when one is brave enough to appear.
Tourists are not the target of the recent violence, but still the fear is pervasive – thank you American media.
This past weekend was Father's Day, a time usually packed with tourists in Baja, restaurants filled, beaches and bars as well. Sadly, no such luck. The media is successful in painting Mexico as a war zone, not to be braved by mere tourists. It now requires a passport or passport card to get back into the United States even if you are a citizen. Swine Flu still hovers out there in people's consciousness.
So, Mexico is dying along with the narco-trafficante victims. Along Benito Juarez, the main drag in Playas de Rosarito, taco shops still willing to brave the economic downturn sit empty.
This last weekend I had breakfast overlooking the beach at one of our favorite restaurants. Years past the beach filled with kids, families, people on horseback, tents, dune buggies racing around, volleyball games, food stands. There were a few souls on the beach, vast empty stretches and a few more souls.
Our beach is beautiful, cleaned regularly; tourists welcomed with huge smiles and courtesy. We want them, they are our lifeblood. But they aren't coming. Mexico is suffering a slow death by media.
Then, Sunday night as I clicked through the channels, there was Anderson Cooper, doing a special for "Sixty Minutes" on CBS about the violence in Mexico. Footage of headless bodies lined up on streets, hanging from buildings, guns, and the seeming hopelessness of the war on drugs was the subject matter. Hell, if I saw it on TV I'd sure have second thoughts about coming down here. But, take another look and the footage is not so new, the interviews with Homeland Security not quite recent. It's just another vicious attack on a neighbor to exacerbate the situation. What's the matter – a week with no news?
Let's face the sad truth; the basis of the problem is money. Mexico is still a developing country. Compared to their neighbor to the north salaries are low. Americans buy massive quantities of recreational drugs so the sale of them across the border is blindingly profitable. The cartels are willing to pay huge sums of money to carry on their business. The equation is obvious. Tourist business is down. The downturn in the US economy killed real estate development and resulted in factory closings on the Mexican side of the border. People are as desperate for work here as they are in the US – they need to work, they need money to feed their families. Crimes go up.
If you need to earn a living and the only game in town is a cartel, the decision is obvious. The USA must cooperate not only in helping Mexico gain back the tourist business, but also to raise the standard of living and, first and foremost - make drugs legal. But no, they send more money for law enforcement and the problems continue.
I have great respect for President Calderon. He has taken on the onerous task of fighting the drug war. Like our president in the United States, he inherited a terrible problem and is bravely dealing with it. But the US must also help. A hard look should be taken at legalizing drugs. The first step towards a solution is to cut off the demand and the money made from filling it. It will also help the US by creating tax dollars from legal sources that fill the demand.
After all, wouldn't you rather see the money to satisfy drug users going to Pfizer, Lily, Amgen, Johnson & Johnson or Merck rather than the cartels? We can tax these guys, they're Americans.
How much does the government spend each year in fighting the war on drugs? Wouldn't it be nice to have that money to spend on education or health care?
Next, for pity sake, stop the Mexico bashing! The media has a slow day and they bash Mexico. What's that all about? Every illegal alien is thought to be Mexican, Mexico is cited as the Swine Flu capital when in fact it did more to stop the epidemic than the USA. Mexico is depicted as the most dangerous place in the world on a par with Pakistan and Americans are told not to travel here. This plays into the hands of the cartels. When no legal work is available, more desperate people are available to suck into their web.
Look at the crimes in the USA. The crime rates are skyrocketing all over the country. They always do in an economic downturn.
I visited my daughter the beginning of the month. She lives in a lovely country area in Connecticut. Forested lots of five to ten acres are graced with elegant New England style homes. At the end of her area, a country road leads to the highway. Three houses out of four on the corners of that road have been broken into. When I'm in the states the news is full of home invasions, bank robberies on the rise, kidnappings, ho hum, just another day. They get very little press - but have crime in Mexico and it's a big deal. I don't see anyone sending out advisories not to travel to Connecticut or California.
In fact, the violence in Mexico is a sign that President Calderon's fight against the cartels is working. The cartels are fighting for their lives; they know the government is tightening controls on graft, gun importation and targeting all levels of crime. There are military checkpoints, enhanced border security entering Mexico, all evidence of how serious the government is taking this problem.
New police recruits are trained by international staff and methods. The old laissez faire attitude towards the mordita (little bite) or graft pay off is gone. The new police forces are being taken seriously and the citizens are looking at them with a new respect not there in the past.
Under the old regimes, crimes were seldom reported, most people were more afraid of the police then the criminals. They knew there was no one higher up to report graft to as it was rampant through the entire chain of command. Many police were involved with the criminals and would come after you if crimes were reported.
That is changing, and expect a fight. No one easily gives up their morditas. Mexico is in a battle to become a respectable country, move out of third world status, and it's trying hard – it is something the people want. There are more and more educated workers; an emphasis is placed on educating children and having them learn useful vocations. The middle class is increasing by leaps and bounds. Gigantic developments are built to house the working class in new and modern homes, priced to be accessible. People with something to lose want law and order and control in their lives. This is the attitude of the new generations, they see a better way and they not only want it, they demand it.
Come and see, the streets and highways are being beautified. There is a war against graffiti and highway debris. If someone hasn't come to Baja in a few years, it will be a shock to see how improved the area is. We see it in Rosarito where Mayor Hugo Torres has made incredible improvements to the infrastructure of the city - roads paved, upgraded sewage, water and electric. He wants a safe, clean and beautiful city. The sad part is, there are few tourists to enjoy the clean beaches, the new sculptures and plantings on main streets, cleaner highways and modernized city. Sadly, because of the economy, closed stores and restaurants face those streets the city has done so much to beautify.
Ensenada is reminiscent of the South of France with sidewalk cafes on it's main street in the tourist area. Good restaurants, reasonable priced accommodations are all available with no takers. Shopping is excellent and a good bargain at thirteen pesos to a dollar, but stores close for lack of customers.
A trip to the wine country of the Guadalupe Valley is through interesting nature; fine wines are there to be enjoyed along with good food and accommodations. We who live here love this trip and always enjoy a day spent in the valley exploring to find new vineyards and restaurants.
There are no problems in these areas, but they suffer with the bad press given to the Tijuana drug wars and swine flu scare. Ships don't dock in Ensenada with the same frequency. There are fewer American license plates on weekends along the Cuota road south.
Condominium developments stand skeletal and unfinished, the money ran out when the US economy tanked and buyers disappeared. Even the rental market dried up. Where everything was rented by this time of year, there are few takers for this summer season.
How long will it take to come back? No one knows, but I do know one thing, if the US doesn't stop the killing media blitz, it never will. Ever since 9/11, it seems the only thing that get's people's attention is fear, and now it's aimed at Mexico. Maybe we should develop a terror level here too.
Come on down, it's green for OK!
Copyright Alice Donenfeld-Vernoux 2009 all rights reserved. Any use requires the permission of the copyright owner.

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